Perseverance Saved Monopod and Money

© 2014 Kae Cheatham

Photography has been a large part of my life for several decades. I usually shoot action events, domestic animals; and to steady my aim, I most often use a monopod. Now I have this new big lens, and when I was using it on the monopod the other day, the lower extension kept slowly retracting.

weighs about 4 lbs

I noticed that a plastic cap was missing from the tightening cog. Bummer. Do I need a new monopod?

I bought both my tripod and monopod in the last century, so an upgrade could be considered. Still, I have other photo priorities right now, such as a speed light for my digital cameras (I’ve been using last-century units teched for film cameras, and have to do a lot of manual adjustment to get the correct exposures).

After eyeing several monopods (with $100 + price tags) at online stores, I decided to see if I could get the cap replaced, and carried the monopod in to my local hardware store. I didn’t have much hope for success, especially after one salesperson said, "What the heck is this thing?" But I persevered.

The next store associate took one look and said, "I think the nut needs to be tightened." (Could it really be that easy?) After a brisk walk down the nuts-and-bolts aisle, he selected a small tool, tightened the nut...And no more creeping retraction!

I bought the little socket (under $2.00) and at home, using my own ratchet, made further adjustments to allow for the heavier lens. Good as new! I added the socket to my camera bag, in case I need field adjustments.

I’m so glad I considered other options and didn’t just impulse buy a replacement.

---

---

Visit Kae C's Images on Facebook and Fine Art America. 
Tweets @KaeCsimages

Winter Shoot Camera Care

When scheduling a winter shoot, make plans in three segments.

• Before: precautions before leaving the house;
• During: precautions when out shooting;
• After: the best way to end the shoot.

BEFORE
-- If you have several lens choices, decide which to use (preferably only one; swapping lenses in the cold increases risk), put it on the camera and use a lens cap to guard against fogging.
-- Pack a camera bag that will hold your camera and a few extra things, such as some plastic or canvas bags; a soft, lint free cloth; food, water and extra gloves for you.

A water-repellant, dark bag is best; it will absorb heat even from the winter sun and items in it might stay warmer longer (depends on the temps, of course).
-- Take a padded ground cloth, so if you have to set the bag down, the cold won't seep through the bottom.
-- Place your extra batteries in an interior coat pocket where they will benefit from your body warmth. In subzero temps, put a hand-warmer packet in that pocket, too.

DURING
-- Allow the camera to adjust to the temp change from warm car to cold day; keep it in the bag for as long as possible when you leave the car; this will reduce the chance of the lens and viewfinder fogging.
-- If you can, carry your camera under your jacket between shots. If it's on a tripod, cover it--a sweatshirt works well.
-- Maintain battery power by swapping the batteries on occasion. Even a cold battery will regain some strength after it is warmed. Autofocus uses power, so if possible, go manual. Previewing your shots also uses power, so use this feature sparingly.
-- Moisture can accumulate on your lens from light or wind-whisked snow. Use an absorbent cloth to keep the camera dry. If conditions start getting messy, a small umbrella (that you have stashed in your bag, of course) or a pop-out reflector can shield the camera.
-- When a gale kicks up, get everything under wraps; any moisture can really mess up the circuits that control the camera's functions.

A plastic bag is good to pull around the camera, although I prefer one of the reusable bags from recycle places. They are sturdy and easier to maneuver in a wind; you can even put it inside the plastic bag. I've treated the outside of mine with the same waterproofing I use on my boots.

AFTER
Although thoughts of warmth and shelter might beckon you, first make provisions for the camera.
-- Condensation can be produced in any change from outside to inside—even into the car. Let the camera warm slowly to prevent condensation. It's best to wipe the camera down and put it in a resealable container or the camera bag before you get out of the cold. The bag will collect the moisture and not the camera.
-- Once at home, unpack everything and dry it thoroughly. If not treated properly, moisture on a lens, especially where it connects to the camera, can eventually cause mold between the glasses. (If you were caught in bad weather I suggest dismantling and wiping all removable parts as soon as you get to your vehicle.)
-- Open all the hatches and flaps on the camera to let moisture escape. Take out the memory card and battery.

 

Pouches of rice or silicon packets placed in the camera bag will also remove moisture. Any missed condensation could freeze and cause damage when the camera is again exposed to the cold.





-- Don't forget to charge the batteries so they're ready for the next venture.